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How I Stay Cool in Tuscany & Umbria During the Summer

me and my friend during agusut in tuscany and umbria

Looking for the best things to do in Tuscany and Umbria when it’s hot? After nearly every cooking class at Il Fontanaro, guests ask me the same question:

“It’s so hot this afternoon… where would you go?”

I always smile because my answer isn’t a famous attraction—it’s simply what I do myself.

After welcoming thousands of travelers over the years, I’ve learned that summer in Tuscany isn’t about doing more. It’s about slowing down, following the rhythm of the day, and discovering places that stay naturally cool.

Instead of standing in the sun all afternoon, I escape underground, walk through mountain forests, visit centuries-old churches, enjoy a long Italian lunch, or watch a movie under the stars.

If you’re visiting Tuscany or Umbria between June and September, these are the places I genuinely recommend.


1. Discover the Underground City of Chiusi

Whenever guests are staying nearby, Chiusi is usually my first suggestion.

Most visitors only see the charming streets above ground, but the real surprise lies beneath the city.

The ancient Labyrinth of King Porsenna, Etruscan tunnels and underground passages are among the most fascinating archaeological sites in Tuscany. Even better, they stay naturally cool throughout the summer.

Coming back into the sunshine always feels like returning from another world.

Before leaving Chiusi, I always stop at the historic Caffè Venezia, one of the town’s classic cafés. An espresso or a homemade gelato in Piazza Graziano is the perfect excuse to slow down and watch local life unfold.

Just a few steps away stands the beautiful Cathedral of San Secondiano, one of the oldest Romanesque churches in Tuscany. Inside, the thick stone walls create a wonderfully cool atmosphere that’s especially welcome on hot afternoons.

If you love history, archaeology and authentic Tuscany without the crowds, Chiusi is one of the region’s best-kept secrets.


2. Cool Off at Parco delle Piscine in Sarteano or Laguna Park at Trasimeno 

When the temperatures really climb, there’s one place I never hesitate to recommend.

Parco delle Piscine in Sarteano.

There are shady trees, green lawns, plenty of space to relax, and it’s perfect for families as well as couples looking for a peaceful afternoon.

It feels more like a park than a swimming pool.

or at Laguna Park in Magione, Lake Trasimeno Area


3. Escape to Monte Amiata

When Tuscany becomes too hot, locals quietly head for the mountains.

One of my favorite escapes is Monte Amiata, an ancient volcano covered with magnificent chestnut and beech forests.

Within an hour, the landscape changes completely. The air becomes cooler, the forests quieter, and summer suddenly feels much more comfortable. Walk one of the shaded trails, stop for lunch in a mountain trattoria serving homemade pasta and local mushrooms, then enjoy breathtaking panoramic views before heading back toward the valleys in the evening. It feels like discovering another Tuscany.


4. Walk Through Le Crocette Forest

Not every escape requires driving into the mountains.

Just outside Sarteano lies Le Crocette, a peaceful woodland where shaded paths wind through ancient oak trees overlooking southern Tuscany.

It’s one of those places few tourists discover, yet locals have loved for generations.

Bring comfortable shoes and enjoy one of the coolest walks in the area.


5. Visit Montepulciano Early in the Morning

If Montepulciano is on your itinerary, wake up early.

Before 9:00 AM, the Renaissance streets are peaceful, cafés begin opening, photographers enjoy soft morning light, and you’ll experience the town before the summer crowds arrive.

Finish with an artisan gelato before heading somewhere cooler for the afternoon.


6. Watch an English Movie Under the Stars

One of my favorite summer evenings is surprisingly simple.

I head to Nuovo Cinema Caporali in Castiglione del Lago.

Throughout the summer, the cinema regularly screens selected films in their original English version with Italian subtitles, making it an excellent evening activity for international travelers. Watching a great movie outdoors with a gentle breeze is one of the most relaxing ways to end a hot day.

Check the latest English-language screenings before you go.


7. Explore Museums During the Hottest Hours

Many of Tuscany and Umbria’s museums are housed inside medieval stone buildings with naturally cool interiors.

Instead of walking under the midday sun, spend an hour discovering Etruscan history, Renaissance art or local traditions before continuing your journey later in the afternoon.

It’s a simple trick that makes summer travel much more enjoyable.


8. Finish the Day in Radicofani

As the temperatures begin to fall, I often suggest driving to Radicofani.

Perched high above the Val d’Orcia, this spectacular medieval village offers some of the most breathtaking sunset views in Tuscany.

Walk through its peaceful streets, climb to the ancient fortress, admire endless rolling hills glowing in golden light, and finish the evening with dinner in one of the village’s traditional trattorias.

It’s the perfect ending to a summer day.


My Personal Summer Tip

After welcoming guests to Il Fontanaro for so many summers, I’ve realized that the secret to enjoying Tuscany isn’t seeing more—it’s living like the locals do.

Wake up early, when the villages are still quiet, the cafés are opening and the morning light is at its most beautiful.

When the afternoon heat arrives, don’t fight it. Slow down. Enjoy a long lunch, visit a cool museum or church. Or read a book in the shade at the pool, or simply take time to do nothing at all—just as Italians have always done.

Then, around 9:30 in the evening, step back outside.

That’s when the villages truly come alive. Teenagers gather in the piazzas to play soccer until late at night, younger children run freely between the cafés, families take their evening stroll, and friends meet for gelato or an aperitivo. During the hottest hours of the day, you hardly see anyone outdoors—but once the sun goes down, the streets belong to the locals again.

The church bells ring across the hills, the air becomes cooler, conversations fill the squares, and the golden light slowly gives way to a sky full of stars.

For me, that’s the real Italian summer—not rushing from one attraction to the next, but embracing the rhythm of life that has shaped these villages for generations.

 

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